Berozgar Mahila Kalyan Sanstha

BMKS is a registered society in Godda district of Bihar, which started in 1993 with the initial financial assistance from Dastkar. (Dastkar, in turn had been generously granted the royalties of Gita Mehta’s River Sutra to help buy and release the 75 bonded women, so that they may establish BMKS!) This society was formed to improve the situation of spinners and weavers from Kajrel village focussing mainly on hand spinning and hand weaving of tussar using innovative weaving techniques and natural colours in the fabric. The main aim of the organisation is income generation and self-reliance for women. At a small level there is a barter system that is practiced. Spinning yarn on the charkha is a secondary employment.  Subsequently, Dastkar has assisted the organisation with inputs on design, vegetable dyeing, marketing initiatives etc. Today, BMKS has a turnover of over Rs. One Crore!

In Kajrel village, which is located in Bihar, the major source of employment is agriculture and coal mining, mainly done by men. Women were not employed in jobs that required movement outside their homes. Thus, Berozgar Mahila Kalyan Sanstha was initiated under the dynamic leadership of Niranjan Kumar Poddar who encouraged the women in Kajrel to develop their already existing skills of spinning.

Niranjan Poddar formed BMKS after he was introduced to Dastkar by Poonam Sarin of Ford Foundation in 1986. As he says, “In 1992, I left Vanvasi Seva Kendra and formed BMKS and through Dastkar we got a donation of Rs. 1,00,000/- from UNDP to purchase Charkha and Rs. 50,000/- as a loan.  Dastkar gave us lots of designing and marketing support due to which BMKS is doing very well off.  Annual turnover of BMKS is almost Rs. 1,00,00,000/- which do not include any government help and this money helps a lot in giving training to women.”

Berozgar Mahila Kalyan Sanstha comprises of approximately 500 members of which 400 are women. The total number of organisers is 30, though the main organisers are Niranjan and Prabhu.  Niranjan accesses the raw material; gets it processed and then gives it for spinning to the women. The women are based in Kajrel village and are paid when the spun yarn is returned. In the month of September, the price for Cocoon is the lowest and it’s the best time to purchase it. The rates for the raw material varies from Rs. 1700/- Khari (1280 Geti) to Rs. 2000/- and the prices for soot is Rs. 1800/- to Rs. 2000/- per kg.

During the monsoon, the work stops for 10-15 days.  The division of labour is done on basis of weight of tussar spin.  The rates are fixed according to that of Khadi Gram Udyog. The wages are paid on the availability of funds in the society, but it is preferred to pay the workers every eight days. The women are paid per kilo they spin. The spinners (Kapteen) on an average spend 4 to 6 hours a day in spinning silk yarn. On an average they can spin 2 to 3kg of yarn per day. The spun yarn is then given to the weavers to weave, most of whom are located in Bhagiya village.  The dyeing, when necessary, is done by the weaver’s family. The goods once finished are sold at a 25% mark up, which is used toward the running of the organisation (sanstha).

DYES

Some years ago, a vegetable dye workshop was conducted by Dastkar Andhra for BMKS. As the Dastkar report says, the “dye materials used were anar, manji, rata jot, indigo, and chaai of seasam - locally available material. Niranjan very enthusiastically brought them.  He guaranteed that it would have a lovely colour.  When he soaked the material there was definitely nice coloured water but on dyeing it took a dull baize.  What was interesting to note was the enthusiasm to experiment.  Joginder then wanted to try dyeing on Korean silk!  Since he is a weaver he was very particular about the quality of the yarn after dyeing.  It was after discussing with him that we felt that some yarn need not be washed in soap and soda.  They could be soaked in hot water to remove the gum or add a little bit of soda if the purpose is still not achieved.  If the yarn becomes woolly it is difficult to put it in the tana and bana.” 

Ari, Noile, Ghiccha and Tussar yarn are used.  Before the dyeing process starts it is imperative to wash the yarn in soap and water.  This process is called degumming or scouring. Mordants are ingredients used in dying to make the colours fast.  The mordants used in vegetable dying are:

Today they are faced with a competitive and an environment demanding eco-friendly products.  To enable this organisation to face this world Dastkar, with the financial backing of CSWB organised this workshop.

Colours extracted are Anaar, Manjit, Ratanjot, onion peel, Jamun’s tree bark, Mehendi, Jackfruits trees bark, indigo blue, black, Seasam ka Chaal.

On starting work with BMKS, one of Dastkar’s goals was to create a self-sustaining, viable producer group, encourage it to market directly and not to subsidize their craft. Through constant design and marketing inputs Dastkar ensured that the end product was competitive, not just in its worthiness of purpose, or the neediness of its producer, but, in cost, utility and aesthetic, because a consumer does not buy out of compassion. Today, Tussar is perceived as a premium up market product, ready to take on the vagaries of the contemporary market, given a chance. Since the conception of BMKS, its sales have gone up tremendously, by more than 500%.

BMKS is a symbol of empowerment, whereby craftspeople have learnt to use their own inherent skills as a means of employment, income generation and economic self-sufficiency. But income generation alone, or even when allied to other developmental inputs from outside, does not rebuild the community spirit and confidence of marginalized people. They must share and participate, agree with and augment, eventually plan, coordinate and spearhead local activity and action themselves. This is the guiding philosophy of BMKS and this is what it strives to achieve. Bhagalpur is the hub of tussar production, (equivalent to an industry) in India.  Therefore BMKS. is competing with individual traders / companies / Gram Udyog / Vanvasi Kendra etc. Most women who spin yarn for BMKS also take “pattas” from other companies like the khadi gram etc.  The rate given there is the same as given by Niranjan.

Today, BMKS works in two states – Jharkhand (Kajrel, Belwa, Tetria, Pitambarkita, Bhagiya) and Bihar (Katoria, Pureni, Dumrama, Bhagalpur). The fabric is produced for exhibitions and bazaars. The quality, designs, and the colour of the fabric depend upon the tastes and demands of the customers. The colours that are used are chemical and natural, since this is in accordance with the demands of the exporters and customers at exhibitions respectively. BMKS does not produce locally as there is always a fear of duplication.